finger jamĪ type of jam using the fingers in a crack. exposureĪ knot commonly used to secure a climber's harness to the climbing rope. European death knot A flat overhand used to join a pair of ropes for retrievable abseils considered dubious in America. etrier A short ladder made of webbing that is used for aid climbing. ERNEST An acronym for: Equalised, Redundant, No Extension, Strong, and Timely, in building anchors. epic An otherwise ordinary climb that turned into a major struggle. A British term for a route that doesn't take the most obvious or direct line (i.e. A bouldering move, or series of moves, where certain holds are placed "off bounds". eight-thousander A mountain whose elevation exceeds 8,000 meters (26,247 ft) a.s.l, of which there are only 14 in the world. Egyptian bridging The same position as bridging or chimneying, but with one leg in front and one behind the body. cleaning toolĪn advanced rock climbing technique for overhanging routes where the knee is dropped downwards to twist the hips - and thus the centre of gravity - closer to the rock face, thus increasing the amount of upward reach and torque available to the climber the unique stresses on the knee can lead to serious injuries. clean aid climbing A type of aid climbing where only removable traditional climbing protection is allowed, and no hammered-in bolts or pitons. To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope. A route that is free of loose vegetation and rocks vigorous cleaning can be chipping 3. To remove (or strip) protection equipment from a climbing route. choss Loose or "rotten" rock that makes for unpleasant, difficult, or dangerous climbing. chop route British term for a traditional climbing route with very poor protection where any fall could be fatal. chockĪ stone wedged in a crack that can be threaded to create a point of protection in traditional climbing. chipping Improving a climbing hold by chipping the rock - is considered unethical and poor practice in climbing. chimney A rock cleft with mostly parallel vertical sides, large enough to fit the climber's body. chicken wing A crack climbing technique where a hand is placed on one side of the crack and the shoulder on the other. It is a standard response to a climber's " on belay" request. belay on A climbing command from a belayer to confirm that the friction of belaying has been (re)applied to a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's " off belay" request. belay off A climbing command from a belayer to confirm that the friction of belaying has been removed from a climbing rope. belay loop The strongest point on a climbing harness, and the loop to which a belay device is physically attached. belay device A mechanical device used by belayers to increase braking force when belaying a figure eights or tubers. belayer The person belaying the lead climber, also known as a second. belay To protect a roped lead climber from falling by controlling the rope usually involves a belay device. bashie A copperhead piece of climbing protection device intended for pounding into a crack. When all four points of contact are on a straight axis, the body can swing uncontrollably on this axis. American death triangleĪ potential barn door swing to the right. alpine style Carrying all your own gear (even for multi-day climbs) also called "light-weight" climbing opposite of expedition style. alpine start Starting a climb very early in the morning, generally before 5 am common to alpine climbing. alpine knee An awkward climbing technique where the knee is placed on the hold rather than the foot. Part of the alpine climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of alpine climbing routes, which goes: F ("facile/easy"), PD ("peu difficile/little difficult"), AD ("assez difficile/fairly hard"), D ("difficile/difficult"), TD ("tres difficile/very hard"), and ED ("extremement difficile/extremely difficult") ED then goes ED1, ED2, ED3. alpine climbing A form of mountaineering that includes ice climbing, dry-tooling and rock climbing. aid climbing Type of rock climbing where artificial devices are used to make upward progress (and not just for protection) opposite of free climbing. A thin blade mounted perpendicular to the handle on an ice axe is used for chopping footholds.
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